and over the years tiers have come up with various ways to avoid the problem of building a body, overbody and wing of one clump of deer or elk hair. this point is important because it is the reference for the start of the body and front of the hump, later on. clip a bunch of deer or elk hair from the skin. i know, counting hairs sounds more than a bit ocd but do it once and it will give you an idea of the volume of hair you like to work with. pull the hair forward to make the hump and wrap down with three tight wraps. that will give you a clean start of the hackle.
just compensate for that extra tail length by shortening in step 3 the hair for the body/wing a bit. * shorter or longer tails are a matter of preference, and i’m with you on shorter tails if you use deer hair, because this will flare less because we’re tying down hair towards the tips, which is less prone to flaring under pressure. that’s the reason i prefer elk hair because it has a steeper taper towards the tips. a shorter tail is preferable if you tie the tail using elk or even deer hair since this will prevent excessive flaring. – tied slim, with less hackle, the “slim-fast humpy” suspends near-surface, and i slow strip it like a wet fly. it costs money to drive a large site like this.
the humpy is also tied in two styles, short and fat and the long and slim version i am tying here. when tying this in the wraps of tying thread near the tail base should be firm but not tight! the wing and shell back are all made from the same bunch of deer hair so its important that you get this right. keeping all the deer hair on top of the hook shank tie in as shown. a little over half way of the hook shank tie in a length of floss. take care that all the deer hair fibers are parallel and not crossing each other.
fold the wings back and make five or six turns of tying thread tight into the wing base. wrap your tying thread back towards the hook eye. make a couple of wraps of tying thread around each wing base just to keep them collected and erect. whip finish, but before your complete your whip finish but have only a short length of tying thread again before you tighten, place a small drop of varnish on the tying thread, and then finish your whip finish ! for the past 28 years he has lived in norway where he works as a professional photographer and a fly tying consultant for the mustad hook company and veniard ltd. his successful youtube channel ‘the feather bender’ has 43,000 subscribers. this ground-breaking ‘pairing’ is a first in the world of fly tying instruction. fly tying for beginners, will also be published in the usa by skyhorse publishing in autumn 2022. view all posts by barryoc
in tying dry flies, randall kaufmann notes that the humpy is “arguably, the greatest surface fly ever devised. it represents nothing and this popular western pattern comes in many variants of colour, wing and tail materials, hackle and single and double popularized by jack dennis and his western trout fly tying manual, the humpy is the western attractor dry but has a reputation for being difficult to tie., irresistible fly pattern, irresistible fly pattern, green humpy fly, orange humpy fly, cdc humpy fly.
tie on a slightly bushy tail, but don’t get carried away. notice how the thread wraps actually form a tummy that extends two-thirds of the way forward. bind the how to tie the yellow humpy fly pattern as attractor dry flies go, the humpy is near the top of my list. tied to imitate nothing in particular fly tying: the yellow humpy my favorite backcountry attractor dry fly might be the venerable humpy. tied in yellow or red (or even “royal”, stimulator fly pattern, deer hair fly patterns, dry humper fly pattern, tying small dry flies.
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