float n fly

the technique—though it’s been around for a long time now—made headlines several years ago on the west coast. my largest fish on the fly is a 5-pound spotted bass, and last week i stuck a 4-pounder. then, setting the hook with light line and fighting a 3- to 4-pound bass, for what seems like an eternity, is downright exciting. the hardest part of the technique is finding the right place to fish it. the other day i was fishing a 3/4-ounce jig in 55 feet of water on a long, flat point. the rig for tossing a float-’n’-fly is a light-action spinning rod, spinning reel with a smooth drag, 10- to 15-pound braided line, 4- to 6-pound fluorocarbon, a balsa slip float bobber, and a fly. i don’t use a bobber stopper because they tend to tangle the line and can get caught in the guides.

i’ll generally start with a 15-foot leader so that if i do snag the fly, i have a little room to re-tie. similar to fishing a jerkbait, the hardest part is knowing how long to let the fly sit. if i notice my bobber isn’t standing upright, i’ll give it a little tug to bring the fly deeper until the bobber does stand up. i’ve had days when the fish bite as soon as it gets close to the bottom and others when i had to let it sit for 30 or more seconds. i generally use the heavier of the two as it seems to fall at a better rate than the lighter fly. he is a successful tournament angler competing on the west coast. as a tournament angler, mark has cashed a check on nearly every lake across the west coast.

it’s really only in front of the bass for a small percentage of the retrieve. the best technique is to make a cast to the bank, let your fly sink, and then slowly bring the entire rig back to you with very subtle rod tip bounces or jiggling. one day, i told him, “man, all we’re really doing is nymphing for bass, and there’s no reason i can’t do this with my fly rod.” the next trip, i did just that, tying on a 12′ 3x leader, attached a strike indicator at the far end of the butt section of the leader and tied on 1/16 oz. use your electronics to find the bass and the bait and set your strike indicator so that your jig fly will be at or slightly above the depth of the fish. if you stick with it and use the tips i’ve suggested, i’m confident you’ll catch good numbers of bass and have most of the lake to yourself.

all i know is that the fish are few and far between, but are never small. i looked at the float in the photo and it appears to be one that is marketted by phil rowley. it is pegged with a plastic insert and doesn’t slide on the leader. if you go weightless, you’re going to be waisting a lot of time, waiting on your pattern to get down in the strike zone. so float would lay down in the absence of the weight of the fly, for “lift bites” or when fly is grounded on bottom and go back to vertical when weight of fly has pulled it down. and is it written by louis cahill?

if you’ve never fished the float n fly the concept is very simple. you suspend a fly (much like a crappie jig) below a float (bobber) and wait the float n fly shines in very specific situations. the ideal conditions are fairly clear to very clear water (3ft clarity and clearer) and water temps below 50 float ‘n fly jigs are lead-head jigs tied with bright-colored craft hair and strips of shiny synthetic materials that add flash so that the jigs imitate bait, .

that old adage “bigger baits catch bigger fish” is true—in most cases—but not with this one. we’re talking about the float-‘n’-fly—a small 1/16- with a float n’ fly rig, the suspension/floating device (strike indicator set to a preferred depth) allows you to maintain a consistent depth working the bait consists of a series of slow pulls each accompanied with a pause. the fly is so light that as you pull it along it will, .

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